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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.